Don’t be fooled by the safari theme that inspired Massimo Giorgetti’s latest men’s effort: there were actually two journeys the MSGM founder embarked on for spring. The most blatant one indeed nodded to a trip he recently took to Tanzania and that informed his lineup’s earthy color palette, prints and workwear silhouettes.
The other was more nuanced and spiritual as it marked a journey in self-awareness. Giorgetti said backstage that he tried to capture the moment when he woke up at 5 a.m. to watch the sunrise and go on safaris (to be sure, he captured it literally by printing pictures he took with his iPhone on tank tops, bowling shirts and pants).
Metaphorically speaking, “that’s the moment dreams get interrupted because you have to wake up, but when you think about it, it also marks the moment in which you have to step up, turn them into reality and become really aware of what you want,” he said.
This greater self-awareness was reflected in an elevation fashion-wise, expressed via Giorgetti’s choice of fabrics, his bigger focus on tailoring, as well as more diverse casting.
“There’s a renewed desire for well-done things,” he said, showing garments in cotton, silk and cool wool and underscoring that no polyester was in sight. In its simplicity, the draped shirt and sartorial shorts of look 3 best proved Giorgetti’s thoughts as well as his brand’s more polished direction, which was still infused with MSGM’s youthful energy.
Cut in relaxed shapes, tailoring also channeled the sophisticated yet laid-back attitude. Oversized blazer jackets and roomy pleated pants came in pastel solids, patterned with macro daisies or tweaked with a lived-in feel via sandy effects on lapels and around the pockets. A dark cotton suit had a frayed texture that recalled an animalier pattern, while an eco leather version seemed to have survived muddy adventures in style.
Camouflage prints, pocketed overshirts, cargo pants and boiler suits telegraphed the more utilitarian vibe, which seamlessly blended into the more polished offering. Similarly, the casting encompassed different ages as Giorgetti also welcomed more mature men into his MSGM tribe, which was led by Axel Hermann opening the show in a sleek coat accessorized with a torch in his hand.
The gesture was replicated by many of the models who followed as they walked in the industrial, tunnel-like location as if they were on an exploration mission in the darkness, or simply awaiting the dawn of a new day to make their next move.
Reposted from wwd.com